The European
| Where | 161 Spring Street, Melbourne, 3000—View map |
Contact | 03 96540811 info@theeuropean.com.au |
Website | www.theeuropean.com.au |
Open | Breakfast Monday to Friday 7.30 am to 12.00 pm |
Payment | EFTPOS, Visa, Mastercard, Diners, AMEX, Cash |
Diet | Soy |
Seating | Inside and outside |
Kids | Get a baby sitter |
Pets | Unwelcome |
Your sex is on fire
Ellie Parker 17 October 2008
The European is like the perfect lover-dark and mysterious, sensual, passionate and delicious. You leave the building feeling satisfied, silky and sexy. You can still taste it on your lips. You want to scream. Life is good.
A flirty tomato tartlet with Reggiano parmesan is the first hook. The caviar, soft-boiled eggs and toasted brioche then arouse your senses. The Huevos Madrilenos (baked eggs, black pudding and chorizo) brings it home. Every mouthful is sublime. It's exciting yet delicate.
The European is a professional outfit. As a breakfast experience, it's faultless. The service is subtle, swift and attentive. The décor is romantic and dark, with timber furnishings, old-fashioned mirrors and moody little lamps.
But it's the menu that deserves the most attention-it's extensive, imaginative and quality-driven. To tempt the imagination think smoked trout, potato frittata with avocado salsa, or a sublime boudin blanc with apples and mustard. Seriously, who else gives you boudin blanc of a morn'?
The kitchen executes each dish with precision and finesse. In my books, the eggs Benedict (the yardstick for any kitchen's breakfast capabilities) is the best in Melbourne. There, I said it. It's the best. Two little mounds of molten flavour present themselves on English muffins. The hollandaise takes your breath away with its tightrope balance of butter, yolk and lemon. An immaculate emulsion.
The tomato tartlet is a favourite for those who don't like eggs for breakfast. The pastry is light, the tomato tastes of real tomato, and the balsamic and Reggiano combination take it to the next level. The Croque Monsieur (or Croque Madame) is a toasted sandwich to rival all others, with generous shavings of ham, gruyere, béchamel and mustard. Yes it's decadent, but if you order a Croque that's exactly what you're after, so stop your whining.
The European is an adult experience. Even the pikelets are dressed up with clotted cream and maple syrup. If ever there was a time to order a glass of champagne alongside your brioche and caviar, it would be now. Go there to be seduced. Go there for fine, fine food.
You will leave the European wanting more, but there is nothing wrong with that. That's what romance is all about.