If you’ve given up eating in well-worn Brunswick Street, a short stumble east can lead you to the quiet corner that is home to Ici. Housed in a bluestone façade, the poky Parisian style establishment whisks you in from the throngs with a dreamy accordion soundtrack. Smokers get to know dog owners as the tables and single seats outside become a communal gathering.
The interior is decidedly European, with an old wooden counter, popular window seats and faded metallic lettering that evokes an earlier era. And for some odd reason, Ici has decided to throw in a touch of Asian décor, with Japanese style condiment plates and a Buddha sanctuary.
East meets west again in the impressive offering of tea varieties, ranging from English classics and chai to brewed Dandelion, smoky Lapsang Souchong and a selection of Japanese greens.
The menu is a step up from the focaccias and pizza slices typical of the area and the prices reflect this shift. A chalkboard guides you through a small selection of breakfast options and is coupled with a list of optional extras including organic lamb sausage and bacon. Some of these extras don’t otherwise appear in the dishes and are designed to be added to a basic plate of eggs – kind of a build-your-own breakfast.
The French toast is something to savour. Berries, mascarpone and maple top two smallish pieces of bread that is apparently available in a gluten free variety as well (though they’d run out on the day of our visit). The toast is melt-in-your-mouth more-ish and the berries look and taste freshly picked. There’s a hint of candied citrus peel in there – a welcome surprise.
Another delightful dish is the scrambled eggs with Danish fetta. The eggs are moist and flavoursome, accompanying onion marmalade is a real zinger, and the dukkha on top provides an explosive mouthful of spices.
Scrambled tofu on toast offers a deviation from the norm, however I struggled to figure out how the homemade marinated cubes are “scrambled”. This dish comes with a yummy beetroot relish and white bean sprouts to leave you feeling cleansed for the day ahead.
If gluten is a dietary consideration, do ask about the bread before settling in for your coffee to make sure it’s available. The homemade banana bread is another gluten free option worth trying.
Ici service was prompt if a little curt, though I tend to forgive a tired waiter on a Sunday. Just don’t ask to pay with a card if you know what’s good for you.